Brief History

There are scarce details of the early history of Upton Castle, or Ucceton, Ockendon, Octon, Oucheton or Openton as it was sometimes referred to. The Castle was built on a site of early Celtic Christian worship, one of the chain of defensive structures built to impose Norman control over the fertile and strategically important area of South Pembrokeshire. It is probable that there was an earlier place of Christian worship on the site of the existing chapel.

Upton Castle was built by one of the barons dependant on the Earldom of Pembroke, possibly by a member of the Malefant family who held Upton (known then as Occten or Ockten) during the 13th century. At the time of construction these stone structures were some of the most advanced military architecture seen in Britain. Between two of the turrets is the Great Hall which contains the original 13th century fireplace and window openings as well as the stone spiral staircases giving access to the battlements. Three of the original medieval towers and the great Hall still stand today, although the inhabited part dates from the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries. The inhabited parts of the castle were altered based upon the original structure in the preceding centuries, and two towers and glazed gallery were added during 19th century. Sadly, for safety reasons the castle is not open to the public.

The castle passed from the Malefants to Owen ap Gruffydd, a descendant of whom took the name of Bowen in 1564. It remained in the Bowen family until the latter half of the 18th century when it was purchased by John Taker passing eventually to the Reverend William Evans. In 1927 an Admiral Evans sold Upton to Mr Stanley Neal who undertook the main landscaping and planting of the gardens. The work included clearing scrub and undergrowth, planting with a large variety of exotic trees and shrubs and building stone terraces. In 2006 Upton was sold (for only the third time in 750 years) by Mr Neale’s daughter and her husband, The Reverend Canon Skelton, to Stephen and Prue Barlow who are undertaking the present restoration work.

The Chapel was the focus of a Time Team episode which excavated the site finding origins of Norman ridge tiles and stained glass as well as a 12th-century burial. Visitors can admire the Castle from the outside, enter (or even attend a service in) the Medival Chapel and also enjoy the traditional walled and rose gardens. Not to be missed is a stroll through the Celtic temperate rainforest, past the ruins of what we think is a traditional bathing house, to emerge on the shore of the tidal Cleddau estuary.


  • In 1927 when businessman Stanley Neale bought Upton Castle, what are now the gardens consisted mainly of woodlands and grassy meadows. A keen plantsman, he was determined to make a special garden. The unique situation of Upton Castle with its acid soil and hidden valley providing shelter for plants, together with its proximity to the Gulf Stream made it the ideal environment in which to create his garden. In the years following his purchase of Upton, Stanley Neale carried out a great deal of landscaping work, creating the terraces which now form the formal part of the gardens and the paths through the woodland area which is the core of the gardens. Many unusual and rare shrubs and trees were purchased and planted and still form the basis of the magnificent display of mature plants we see today. We are fortunate to still have the original invoices for the plants and though some inevitably have been lost over the years, many still remain.

    Stanley Neale’s daughter, Joyce Skelton, inherited the property during the 1970s and continued the good work of renewing and replanting. It was at this time that the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park became involved with the maintenance of the gardens which were then opened to the public for the first time. By the time Steve and Prue Barlow bought Upton Castle in 2007, The National Park had withdrawn their assistance and the gardens had become very neglected and in need of a major overhaul. A dedicated team of gardeners and volunteers generously donate their time to make it possible to open the gardens to the public. With their valued help and support all can enjoy the beautiful gardens in the summer months.

  • Middle Ages

    • Christian Burials: Radiocarbon-dated evidence by Time Team suggests burials near the chapel date between 1010–1160 AD.

    • 1092 AD: William II (Rufus) ordered the construction of castles in Pembrokeshire, initially wooden stockades and earthworks, to facilitate the Norman invasion of Ireland.

    • 1093 AD: Upton Castle was likely built to defend river access to Carew Castle, the stronghold of Gerald de Windsor and Princess Nesta of Wales.

    • 1112 AD: St Giles Chapel originated, evidenced by the discovery of a Norman Romanesque apse by Time Team.

    • 1150 AD: St Giles Chapel at Upton is referenced in Giraldus Cambrensis' The Journey Through Wales.

    • 1188 AD: Walter Malefant I, founder of the Malefant family lineage at Upton, was born. He later married Alice De La Roche, daughter of a Norman Marcher Lord.

    Post-Medieval Period

    • 1220 AD: Walter Malefant I was killed fighting the Welsh at Kilgerran, according to the Annales Cambrice.

    • 1258 AD: Walter Malefant II married Joan Fitz Henry, a descendant of Princess Nesta of Wales.

    • 1324 & 1348 AD: Sir Walter Malefant III held a knight’s fee at Nash; William Malefant died seised of estates including Over Nash and Nether Nash. Effigies of William and his wife, Margaret Fleming, are visible in St Giles Chapel.

    • 1404 AD: Lady Margaret Malefant was abducted by Lewis Leyston, her late husband’s servant, but later escaped.

    • 1469 AD: Marriage of Alice Malefant and Owen ap Gruffydd passed Upton Castle to the Bowen family, descendants of the Malefants.

    Early Modern Period

    • 1564 AD: Rhys ap Owen, High Sheriff of Pembrokeshire, marked the Bowen family's prominence at Upton.

    • 1753 AD: Upton Castle was purchased for £7,000 by John Tasker, a Master Attendant of the Port of Bombay, who likely built the walled garden.

    • 1800 AD: Upton Castle was tenanted by Sir Henry Halford Vaughn, British historian and relative of Virginia Woolf.

    20th Century

    • 1927 AD: Stanley Neale, a shipowner and gardener, bought Upton Castle and transformed the gardens.

    • 1970 AD: Joyce Skelton inherited Upton Castle, opened the gardens to the public, and collaborated with the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park for garden maintenance.

    Contemporary

    • 2007 AD: Upton Castle was sold to Steve and Prue Barlow. They began a major restoration of the neglected gardens with help from volunteers.

    • Present Day: The gardens, revived through dedicated efforts, are open to the public during summer months.